Sunday, June 17, 2012

Island Hopping the San Blas: Panama to Columbia



















I’m stuck on a bus in Columbia for 20 hour and am very behind in my blogs; time for some catch-up. Due to our spontaneous 2 week stay in Puerto Viejo we were way behind schedule. In Panama we’d had plans to explore the mountainous coffee plantations and island hop through Bocas. Instead we took an epic night bus down the country and arrived in Panama City. This is a beautiful, rich and cosmopolitan city unlike any other in Central with a great night life, shopping and a picturesque old town. 
Cosmopolitan life

The big city

We had friends here so spent our time shopping in the malls(new cameras bought) and going to students apartments for rooftop parties and crazy techno concerts in warehouses. Lucky I hate techno and was completely sober when a woman tried to stick her hand in my bag and grab my wallet. I was glad for the distraction, stopped her and then stopped her a second time with another drunk girl. A close one.
Basil and ginger flavoured icecream

We were ready to leave and travelled out to our yacht the next day. Our original boat had engine troubles so eight of us crammed ourselves into a dinghy to be taken to a small 7 person yacht, the Corto, owned by the 26-year-old Argentinean, Sebastian, and his cockerspaniel Sheida. It was a beautiful boat with 3 bedrooms and a couch Jade and I shared. The next 5 days was a blur of Island hopping, sun and amazing food.
Sheida
The San Blas Islands are a collection of small islands owned by the Kunas people. They are usually deserted or with one family inhabiting them. The water is crystal clear, the palm trees plentiful and the sand pure white. This place is idyllic with a balmy Carribean breeze softly blowing and the sun warming our souls. It was straight out of Pirates of the Caribbean!

San Blas sunsets

 My crew mates were an English couple, Becky and Johno, an American Bliss, two German girls we’d been travelling on and off with since Flores in Guatemala(Irena and Julaa), an Australian Connie and the Captain and his dog. We were lucky with these guys as they were young, fun and interesting and provided hours of entertainment in the long nights.
Land Ahoy

A typical day was this:
Wake up around 7 and don bathers. Jump into Caribbean blue water and swim to nearest island with sheida in close pursuit. Do a lap of said island saying hello to the family living there then lie on the beach for a further 20 minutes having deep life discussions with Jade before swimming back for breakfast.

Morning swim

Breakfast: homemade muesli, fruit, eggs, toast, dulce de leche, Columbian or Panmanian coffee.
Morning: Set sail to the next island then jump into water for a day of snorkelling, sun baking, reading or lying on the giant floating crocodile. Included in this is some sort of delicious lunch and nibblies(olives, cheese, crackers, dip-the kind of stuff Jade and I can’t afford to buy!). Finally finish the day with sunset drinks.
Sailing

Sneaky afternoon rum 

Night: dinner ranges from freshly caught lobster to fish amazingly done by the ex-chef turned sailor Seb. 

Lobster

This is followed by music, watching the full moon rise and chatting or sleeping on the deck.
Everything about this trip was amazing and beautiful and fun. Five days at sea really is total isolation, no internet, no mobile nothing.

Hammock time
Showering was under a hose on deck with an audience

A few things I learnt about boats:
1.       All waste goes into the water so don’t go swimming 15-30 minutes after breakfast
2.       Don’t use the auto-pilot controls as something to hold onto when on deck. If you press standby the boat turns 180 degrees and is at risk of capsizing(I don’t know how they let me stay on the boat after that)
3.       I get sea sick...badly. Luckily Phenergan is amazing and strong enough to keep me asleep for the two day open sea bit to Columbia.

Before I almost capsized the boat

First mate taking a break

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