Costa Rica
Costa Rica is a beautiful, diverse country but oh so very
expensive and not compatible with student prices. For this reason we’d originally
planned to stay for 3 days and get to Panama and boat it to Columbia. Instead,
we ended up delaying everything so we could stay for 2 weeks in a border town,
sloth sitting.
Crossing the border to Costa Rica was one of the most
stressful experiences, mostly because I was 25c short of the $2 fee resulting
in a massive NO written on my passport. Luckily, a sympathetic traveller lent
me a dollar and I got across- what a legend! The day culminated with us getting
dropped off at a cross road to wait for a bus that may or may not come. One
thing about CR, it rains! Turns out my backpack isn’t waterproof- all our stuff
got wet. Eventually, after about 8 hours, we got to our destination- Monte
Verde.
Monte Verde is pretty much an exact replica of Bridgetown in
winter but without the chill. Beautiful rolling green hills, amazing
rainforest, mist every morning and cute, boutique cafes and shops. We managed
to stay in a crazy guy’s house for $5 including breakfast- not bad. Our one day
here we spent in the cloud forest, trekking and animal spotting. This is a beautiful,
lush stretch of rainforest in the hills where the clouds constantly roll in. We
didn’t see anything! Of course it poured with rain but the birds, flowers and
insects were all so exotic that it was worth it. We wanted to go for a nice
meal out with our new English friends, Rob and Joany. Thinking sushi was a
decent choice, we sat down at a huge table only to see the menu- $8 for 2
pieces! We ended up in Super Pollo, the local fast food joint, having the best
quesadillas I’ve had here. The next morning we said our good buys to Nico and
hopped onto the 6am bus to Puerta Viejo.
Puerta Viejo is a border town on the ocean with a big reggae
/surfing scene. I tried to find accommodation and melted after 15minutes. I
finally walked into the nearest place, the lazy loft, and got the last two beds
in the dorm. I was not impressed with this town- it was a party/drug place with
ok beaches but just not my scene. We were going to leave the next day but
Bryant, one of the owners, suggested we check out the jaguar rescue centre.
Jade still hadn’t seen a sloth so we agreed. The next day we hired bikes and
went out. The ride out was absolutely idyllic, through thick jungle and winding
road along the beach. The jaguar centre itself had no jaguars but a collection
of toucans, sloths, monkeys and other big cats. The centre was desperate for
volunteers so we decided on a whim to try animal caring for 2 weeks. After some
persuasion, Bryant agreed to give us a job in reception for 2 hours each a
night to help us pay for accommodation and we were sweet!
The next two weeks were an incredible blur of craziness. A
typical day consisted of riding the beautiful ride to the centre for a 7:30
start of 1.5 hours of cleaning, raking, mucking out cages and feeding animals-
just like on a farm but with toucans and sloths. The next 4 hours were spent
either playing with the monkeys, sitting with tequila the toucan to try and get
her used to humans, working in the kitchen or garden and my all tie favourite-
sloth sitting. Many of the sloths had come in as babies, abandoned by their
mothers. We were effectively their stand in mothers. A day in the sloth garden
involved lying on a mat with baby sloths, giving them cuddles, getting them
good at hanging in trees and showing them off the tourists for information-very cute. In the
arvo’s we would go get the monkeys from their jungle picnic in the forest(the
center served basically like a dating agency where we took the monkeys out
every day to meet other monkeys and hope they would find a mate and leave).
Girls were banned from this after the crazy pepita bit two volunteer girls-one on
the neck. She was bitter and twisted and angry because she still couldn’t find
a mate and so took it out on the girls.
My favourite animals:
Boris the possum: Boris, unfortunately, had an accident with
his tail and would never survive in the wild. He also had no control over his
bladder and so would pee all over himself. needing to be dried every morning.
He was absolutely gorgeous and loved to get dried, wriggling around and moving
his leg like a dog getting a good scratch. Boris duty consisted of letting him
crawl all over you all day or bundling him into a scalf to sleep. I really
loved this animal.
Guaro the toucan: Guaro is the name of the cheapest, most
nasty rum Costa rica has to offer. It gives a killer hang over and will make
you drunk in 2-3 shots(well maybe just me). It was also the name of the most
loving, amiable toucan you will ever meet. Guaro had a fractured wing and
needed to be retrained to fly. This consisted of putting him in a tree and
watching him for 2 hours until he tried to fly, crashed into the ground and
then you’d pick him up and try all over again. He was an affectionate creature,
constantly singing and nibbling on the hair of whoever happened to be cleaning
the cage.
Surfer-the worst sloth ever
Surfer was a two toed sloth with a skin infection and therefore
in isolation from the other sloths. Sloth sitting him involved putting him in a
tree in the beautiful centre and watching jungle life go by as he slept. I
would read hunger games, watch giant blue butterflies and monkeys go by and
just relax after the morning workout of cleaning. He was possibly the worst
adapted sloth in the world, preferring to lie on the ground spread eagle or
with his claws crossed and a token toe in the tree rather than lie in the tree
and protect himself from predators. He was a trickster, seeping until you fell
asleep and then he was out of there- toward the fence and jungle. One thing
about sloths, they’re slow but not as slow as you think, he would cover 10
metres pretty quickly for the slowest animal in the world. Luckily he never
made it because he would get eaten up in about 5 minutes with his lack of sloth
survival knowledge.
Mita
Mita was a three towed sloth, a more basic creature than the
two-toed with no external ears, only able to eat leaves rather than vegetables
and eggs and without a malicious bone in her body. A two-toed will bite you
slowly but hang on hard and long. A three towed would just sit there smiling at
you. Mita loved cuddles and would hang on to the front of your shirt for hours
if you let her. She was the sweetest, most loving creature who just loved
attention.
Maki
Maki was a baby howler monkey with a healing fractured femur.
For this reason he needed to be on someone’s shoulder, neck or arm all day. He
was partial to cat-empire and cloud control I found out when he hung on my neck
during my day in the kitchen. He would rock out or fall asleep. Feeding him was
always a trial- you can’t negotiate with animals and if they decide they don’t
want fruit and goats milk then what are you supposed to do? It was worse than
feeding a two year old, definitely an exercise in patience.
Our job at the lazy loft was the most chilled work ever. As
there was no reception desk we were forced to lie around on couches on the veranda
and watch the electrical storms roll in over the ocean as we are now well and
truly in the wet season. The backpackers were cool and we were forced to talk
to everyone which was actually really fun and led to many new friends and
parties. A reggae bar was directly below with plenty of live music so we could
go down or just hang out in our PJ’s on the veranda and still watch everything.
As my first time working with exotic animals I have to say
it was probably the coolest thing I’ve done on this trip. They all had
personalities and I grew to love so many of them. I also learnt so much about
how to care for sick animals and now have so much respect for all animal rescue
and refuge centers. I also loved working in the hostel, it felt like I had a
home for a little while and the owners were very chilled and kind.
In summary this has been a spontaneous couple of weeks but
definitely amazing.
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